Georgia: A whitewater paradise I never knew existed
How did I never hear about this place?
Last winter, Bartosz Czauderna kept talking about kayaking in Georgia. I listened with a bit of doubt. Why was he the only kayaker talking about Georgia? If there was so much whitewater over there, how come I had never heard of it in my 16 years of kayaking? It seemed strange that such a place could exist without being on everyone's radar.
Then early spring arrived, and I got a text message from Bartosz: "Hey mate! Do you want to guide a trip in Georgia together with me?" Without a second thought, I said yes. Because why not? A new country, a part of the world I'd never been to, and hopefully a whole bunch of new rivers to explore! At that moment, I still had absolutely no idea what I was getting myself into.
Getting there with a 9-foot surfboard
End of April, and I'm back at Brussels Airport, trying to convince the airline that my "surfboard" really needs to come on the plane. Getting a massive 9-foot kayak checked in is quite a challenge, but somehow I managed to make it work. Well, almost. Due to a delay, my kayak got lost somewhere between Brussels, Frankfurt and Krakow. Luckily, just in time for my next flight to Kutaisi, it showed up in Krakow again. Crisis avoided!
In Krakow, I met up with 12 kayakers and their 12 kayaks. After a surprisingly smooth check-in (thanks, Wizz Air!), we flew to Georgia. And the best part? Just three hours after landing in Kutaisi, we were already on our first Georgian river. Not a bad start to a kayaking trip!
First laps in the Georgian jungle
The weather was hot, and there was still plenty of snow in the mountains. That combination meant one thing: big water! Our first stop was the Supsa, where fast-flowing water surrounded by lush green vegetation made for a pretty impressive introduction to Georgian kayaking. After two laps, we changed clothes and headed out for a proper Georgian meal.
Georgian food quickly became an important part of the trip. Meals were packed with meat, cheese, salads and wine, usually followed by an impressive amount of dumplings. To give you an idea of what to expect, here's a little introduction to some of the local specialities:
- Khachapuri: Bread filled with cheese. Simple, but delicious.
- Adjarian Khachapuri: Bread filled with cheese, topped with even more cheese and an egg. Because apparently, one layer of cheese isn't enough.
- Khinkali: Dumplings filled with meat, mushrooms or cheese. Definitely worth trying!
- Chacha: A strong liquor made from the leftover grape material after winemaking. Let's just say it's not the easiest thing to avoid in Georgia!
After a massive meal, we drove to Kobuleti, a small town close to Batumi and right next to the Black Sea. This became our base for the trip, and with the rivers running high, it turned out to be the perfect place to stay.
A new river every day
Every day, we headed out to paddle a different river. Each one brought something new, and every day was fun and challenging at the same time. One thing I quickly learned was that a Russian grade 3 felt more like a European grade 4. Add high flows to that, and you can imagine the kind of fun we were having! The rivers were powerful, the pace was fast, and there was always something new to figure out.
What I loved most was the variety. We weren't spending the entire trip paddling the same section over and over again. Every day meant a new river, new rapids and a new adventure. And with so many rivers in the area, there was always another option waiting around the corner.
So why isn't everyone kayaking in Georgia?
Remember those doubts I had before the trip? Well, I was completely wrong. After paddling in Georgia, I honestly don't understand why it isn't a bigger name in the kayaking world yet. The variety of rivers is massive, getting there is relatively easy, and the logistics are surprisingly straightforward. The local drivers know exactly what kayakers need and are familiar with the put-ins and take-outs of all the commonly paddled sections. No endless searching for access points or trying to figure out where to get on and off the river. Just show up, get in your kayak and paddle!
The food is great, the people are welcoming, and there are rivers for different skill levels. Of course, the weather can be unpredictable. The first group had an amazing time in the sunshine, while the second trip got a little more rain. Still better than the Belgian climate, don't worry!
Definitely not my last time in Georgia
What started as a trip I wasn't entirely convinced about turned into one of those places I immediately wanted to return to. Georgia has everything a kayaker could ask for: loads of rivers, beautiful scenery, great food and easy logistics. And somehow, it still feels like a bit of a hidden gem. I went there wondering why nobody seemed to be talking about it, and came back wondering why more people weren't already going.
A massive thanks to Love It Live It and Bartosz Czauderna for making these trips happen! And thanks to everyone who joined the trips. I loved paddling with all of you on both adventures.
See you on the river!
Rivers paddled in Georgia
- Supsa
- Bzuzha
- Achistskali
- Kintrishi
- Machakhela
- Sakraula
- Tskhenistskhali
- Gubazeuli